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Did you know about their three main advantages..   

         Easy set, Easy adjust, Easy care.

 

                              sand-blasting and powder coating every 2 years... (or even painting)

 

What you need to get going with Quadways ....

   Dibber (dibble)

This makes the precision holes in the ground for the hoops.. Always the same hole spacing.. These are solid M.Tensile steel.. (not cast iron) Good for a lifetime (yours and mine).

                    You need only one... Used by your lawns team

NO Dibber~~ NO Warranty

Plywood Lawn Protector... see below in FAQ

 

   

 

1 set , or 2, or 3,...

...... All the Quadway hoops are precision made interchangeable, SO... They all fit perfectly into the Dibber holes.

The Quadway stainless steel crowns are deeper in cross section so they have a higher resistance to bending (than cast iron or welded mild steel hoops)
The Quadway legs are high grade stainless and again have a higher resistance to bending (than cast iron or welded mild steel hoops)

Important... when you are "firming" the hoops... hit the crown in the middle... Reason..hitting on the screws/legs WILL eventually damage the corners. Not covered by warranty.

Use a Sabot and add decades to your Quadways

 

  Sabot  (say it like saboteur )

 The  Sabot slides over the top of the hoop

Hidden in the top is 55mm of solid steel. (2") That upper protects the hoop from being munted...

The steel sides front & back take all the stress off the adjustable top corners.

Some clubs use the Sabot INSTEAD of a mallet for firming hoops into the ground. The latest version has an industrial grade padding inside the top. (Helps to save the powder-coating)

Maybe one per 4 lawns . Used by your lawns team

 

Terminator SuperClamp 

Not a new idea but refined for speedy use

Tool-less adjustment,  and strength.

Maybe one per 4 lawns.  Used by your lawns team.

The "Spacer" is pre-set to 93mm and is marked with 3 dots..

 To adjust the spacer:-

  1. Loosen the lock-nut (no tools needed)
  2. Extend or Reduce the spacer (bolt).
  3. Tighten the lock-nut

Setting hint:- Put the clamp right down to the Carrots... for maximum leverage.

 

Terminator SuperLifter 

 Uses the principles of a carpenters hammer for pulling out nails..leverage.

 Not much bigger than a carpenters hammer so you can have one on each trolley..

Your ladies will love them. 

 Maybe one for each trolley.  Used by your players to undress their lawn."

Lawn saving hint:- Train your players to "Stamp" on the hoop holes after the hoop comes out.. You will be amazed how long the holes remain good.

Funding  Most clubs don't have a pile of cash hanging around  SO.. funding is the usual option. Just drop me a line and I'll do a quote for you.

Freight.. Quadway hoops are heavy (surprise !!!) but I get good rates from my couriers in NZ AND very good rates to Australia.

Australia

 

Pricing  Plus GST in NZ and Australia. All prices are in NZ$

Description SKU # Price NZ$
Quadway hoop set (6) QH $1,190
Dibber QD $320
Quadway hoop (1) QH1 $210
Quadway Sabot QS $160
T Super Lifter H TSLH $160
T Super Clamp TSC $160

                 All prices are in NZ$  Plus GST in NZ and Australia

Banking Quick code...I will send you this information by secure means. (say no more)

FAQ

How long will the Quadways last?

If they are set in the lawns as recommended then you will have no issues in their normal lifetime of say 30~40 years. Hoop life will be mainly affected by excessive stresses (just like your old hoops in the shed).

The issues arise when hoops are set by well meaning members who are not aware of the potential risks. I will always be able to provide replacement crowns and legs however it would be unreasonable to expect a freebie when damage has been caused by excessive force.
 

 
 
Do I need a Dibber ...Yes ...Essential ... No Dibber...No Warranty

For normal club use:-

  • Make the dibber holes to almost full depth

  • Vertical both ways.(Lawnsetting hint:- Have 2 team members watching and calling  front~back  and left~right)
  • Drop the hoop in and firm it with a rubber mallet and Sabot

 

Sabot  Do I need one? ... probably one for each lawn(say it the same as saboteur..... someone who threw the wooden shoe into the machine) ..

   The Quadways are precision made and they are strong BUT !!!  What might not be clear are the potential issues..

  • Sometimes a hoop will be a bit drunk and leaning over. This is caused by the dibber holes not being vertical. (Lawnsetting hint:- Have 2 team members watching and calling  front~back  and left~right)
  • The usual (BAD) remedy is to give the hoop a whack on the upper corner of the crown so that the hoop straightens in the ground.
  • That remedy puts massive strain on the corners of the hoop and eventually that bending moment will damage the hoop/s
  • The SABOT solves the bad stuff AND many clubs have a sabot on each trolley for firming the hoops... (instead of a mallet)

   Setting lawns for competition play.

  • Often the dibber is stopped 25mm short on full depth then the hoop is clamped , and driven to the depth with a large maul. There are two issues here.
  • Firstly, same as above with the bending moment at the corners that will damage the hoop sooner or later.
  • Secondly, the crown of the hoop is taking all of the driving force and will eventually bend in the middle (just like your old hoops in the shed) Its a bit like when we are driving in our cars.  .  Car and all its parts parts work perfectly as designed but they WILL change in a crash or running over a kerb.

    The Sabot is designed to overcome the unforeseen potential issues.
    The 50mm  (2")of  steel in the top  will take the hammering strain and the side support holds the legs and crown at 90 degrees so there is NO bending moment.
    Some clubs use the Sabot to snug-set the hoops rather than using a rubber mallet. The Sabot has a tough liner, inside at the top, and that is to take away the metal~metal impact. Your powder-coating will last longer.

 

Why make/use a plywood Lawn Protector when making the dibber holes?

    When you lever the Dibber out with a crowbar, you will have something to lever off.  " Give me a fulcrum..and a lever long enough.. and I can move the World".  where have I heard that before ?

Dibber spikes get massive friction in the ground.. When you lift without the Plywood Lawn Protector  you will rip out the lawn

  • Make your Plywood Lawn Protector. 
  • Hop in your car and drive around the local commercial/industrial area.. Look for a builder's yard and ask for some 20mm [3/4"] plywood 300mm x 300mm  (12"x12"). Only 12mm ?  get that one and double it up (to make 24mm [1"] ). AND 2 blocks of 4x2.
  • Mark a centerline both ways on the board
  •     from the centerline, mark 55mm to the left and 55mm to the right. (2 1/8")  for a total of 110mm (4 1/4")
  •     drill a hole at each hoop/leg position 50mm diameter (2") ... these holes will allow the dibber movement.
  • 2 blocks of 90x45mm (4"x2") about 250mm long (10") for crowbar pivots
  • Fit these near the edges, parallel to the hoop holes.......................................EASY

 

Can we swing the hoops ?

  • Sure can BUT.... If you re use one of the holes... THEN.. One leg will be firm and the other will be waggling about.!!
  • So ... Plan to have spare hoop positions.
  • String the lawns as usual.
  • Then use a template board ,with 6 holes, for drilling you guide holes 12mm~15mm drill
  • Template board ? See below
  • Drill all six holes in the turf.  Just leave the side pairs empty.
  • Use the middle 2 for now... That will leave one set to the left, and one set to the right, for later... without  having to measure.  EASY
 
 

Make the template board.  Get a piece of timber 900mm x 100mm x 25mm  (3' x 4" x 1")

  • Mark the centre of the board and a centerline. (really scratch those into the timber)

  • From the centre, measure 55mm left and 55mm right (110mm apart) [4 1/4"] for the first hoop pair.

  •      Now mark a space of 55mm from each hoop hole,,,, then 110mm for the hoop pair (left and right).

  •      Drill a 20mmm (3/4") hole at each of those 6 places.

  •      Now you have a template board with 6 holes.  A middle pair,, and another pair to the left,,, and a pair to the right.  EASY

  • By using these measurements,,,,, your holes will comply with the rules when you use the new holes in a few weeks.  EASY